Paris Fashion Week concluded last week and rounded off the spring/summer 2018 collections with some truly show-stopping line-ups including the likes of Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton and of course Chanel.
This year was all about celebrating life with collections that addressed our difficult times with sublime, optimistic clothes that simply made us happy. Phoebe Philo summed it up beautifully “If there is anything to say at the moment, let it be with love. Let it be joyful.” This season we finally got to see a refreshing dose of diversity on the runway, with models of every age, race, body type, and gender identity represented. Our standout favourite being Adwoa Aboah, not only a model but an activist and the founder of Gurls Talk. Likewise, the locations were also diverse; instead of cold, serious venues, designers brought us to surprising new beautiful places, from Jacquemun’s show at the Musée Picasso to Saint Laurent’s show with the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower Here is a round-up of our top fifteen collections from SS/18.
The S/S 18 Off- White show was dedicated to everyone’s favourite princess - the late Diana, Princess of Wales. We loved all the power suits that channeled executive realness, exaggerated silhouettes and flashes of hot pinks alongside bold patterns.
Simon Porte kicked of Paris Fashion Week in seriously cool style, taking over the Musée Picasso with his latest show entitled La Bomba! A celebration of his late mother's style which included sculpted dresses in mini and midi lengths and flowing side-split slips with dainty straps holding everything in place. Tailoring played a big role with effortlessly sexy shirts that could be worn to the beach or to the bar. Expect to see all these looks copied on the high street.
Phoebe Philo brought us a precious Spring collection of understated clothes that looked unmistakably modern and fresh this season. The mature clean cut looks swayed from the 90’s back to the 80’s. Big-shoulder suits, trenchcoats and a whole lot of tailoring, all with innovative quirks dominated her catwalk.
4. Stella McCartney
Trust McCartney to bring us a collection of eco-friendly looks with her low-impact, green-living ethos. Faux leather was a big fixture alongside beautiful cottons in African prints and deconstructed evening looks. As per, her show was about simple yet satisfying design made from sustainable, animal and eco friendly materials which we admire and champion here at Rug Lane.
The Parisian-based Australian designer, Kym Ellery brought the 60s into the future this season to create a retro-futurist collection. Statement blouses, slinky silhouettes and flared pants glided down the runway all with extreme proportions. We found it hard to choose a favourite look but really loved the hues of yellow, metallic and blue, stitching details, crisp white cottons and crushed velvet's.
6. Isabel Marant
“We always talk about girls borrowing from their boyfriends, but my boyfriend is always borrowing my clothes,” said Isabel Marant. The creator of French girl cool presented a menswear collection alongside womenswear for the first time this season. It was a mash up of unisex glam-leisure looks ranging between the disco and the beach with an endless-summer vibe.
7. Rejna Pyo
This years message was style transcends generations taking in inspiration from Nicholas Nixon's photography series. Pyo's achieved to make clothes that women can wear everyday. Her collection dazzled with its pure ease and simplicity. It was clean and simple fashion with grown-up wit, with a luscious colour palette of sorbet shades.
8. Sonia Rykiel
The oyster was the inspiration for Julie de Libran Spring collection for Sonia Rykiel. Appearing as a print on an oversize silk smock, its colours seen mirrored in her evening dresses and its precious pearl was used as embellishment on many pieces, from knit dresses to a tuxedo suit. We especially loved the pastel hues plus the check prints that look like they are here to stay!
Burberry's Spring 2018 runway boasted a bevy of chavtastic plaid-printed caps, sparkling earrings and aristocratic motifs. It was a true celebration of Great Britain at a time when the country is questioning its own identity. The statement earrings rivaled the show's major tomboy vibes, proving that fashion can be fluid and beautiful.
10. Calvin Klein
Raf Simons’s Calvin Klein was a representation of the unsettling social dystopia of a Westworld America. Starring space cowboys and contamination outerwear. Taking inspiration from the likes of Andy Warhol, cheerleaders and horror movies. “American horror, American dreams,” as Simons put it. However where there is darkness, there is also light which was seen with the 1950s couture silhouettes made from the most unlikeliest of materials: waterproof nylon.
11. Saint Laurent
This show was a high fashion with a capital F! “I want to tell the story of Saint Laurent, of Paris—nothing more deeply than that,” said Anthony Vaccarello and that he did when he showed his epic SS 18 collection,open-air on a beautiful Parisian night, with the Eiffel Tower sparkling in the background. High glamour was displayed with garments made from satin adorned with ostrich feathers and glitter paired with fabulous stomping boots. Vaccarello summed it perfectly: “That girl of Saint Laurent—she wants to have fun,” he said. “She’s not depressed. She wants to enjoy life!” Which was evident in this positively fabulous collection.
The first thing that caught my eye with this show was the jaw dropping set! Someone once told me that nature heals the soul, which I believe Largerfeld would agree with. The collection mirrored the beauty of its surroundings with a focus on the importance of handcraft and the celebratory power of forward-looking fashion. The intricate balance between advanced technical skills and natural-looking textures was amazing. With a nod to the the disco-era in Paris, it was easy to see the inspiration coming from the 60s to the 80s youth here. We adored the plastic fantastic addition which would be great for rainy festivals. However we are hoping to see some high-street copies in recycled materials.
At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière rewound back to the 18th-century and pushed fast forward again to make the past look like the future by combining his collection with contemporary exercise gear. We were a big fan of the extreme mix and match style. Speaking after his show, Ghesquière said, “I thought anachronism was interesting. How today can we incorporate pieces considered as costume into an everyday wardrobe”. Ghesquière always has a confident way of combining the unlikeliest of items. We were big fans of the Stranger Things shirt paired with a pretty pink floral blouse.
Nicky Zimmermann went back to her roots for Spring 2018 to the Gold Coast of Australia. “My parents went on their honeymoon there and it was about trying to capture the beauty, romanticism, and light of the Gold Coast.” She also took inspiration from the photography of the beachside suburb taken during the ’60s and ’70s. The inspiration was clear in the hippie-ish vibe including flower-power gals in white crochet dresses and boho surfer babes in board shorts, glammed up with the Zimmermann sexy flair.
Tired of seeing looks from the 90s and early-’00s? If the answer is yes, you’ll be happy to know that designers are looking back to the 80s this season. Amy Smilovic was especially inspired by the colours, glitz and excess of the ’80s, in particular the street style. The best looks were the easy basics: a sweater and pedal pushers, high-rise trousers paired with tank tops and the flowing dresses in stand out colours of lime green, lilac, and tangerine.